In this video Bob takes a look at the Harley Davidson ignition coil. The primary receives 12 volts from the motorcycle and allows voltage to build; transferring voltage to the secondary winding where voltage is increased to thousands of volts and released through the spark plug wires to the spark plug. There are two types of coils used on most Harley-Davidsons. Dual fire and single fire. Dual fire coils send spark to both cylinders, all the time. Regardless of which cylinder is on the compression stroke.
Single fire coils designate spark to only the cylinder that is on the compression stroke. Spark is delivered to one cylinder at a time. Harley Davidson Ignition Coils are known to fail.
The longevity you get from your coil may depend on usage, demand on the coil or environmental conditions. If it is determined that your motorcycle has no spark; do not just assume that the problem is your coil. There may be an underlying issue. You may have a dead short effecting voltage delivery to your coil. There are a number of reasons you may not have spark from your ignition. Before condemning a coil, you should refer to the electrical manual for your year, make, and model motorcycle.
The specified ohms resistance for the primary of a carbureted Softail will not be the same as the primary of a Ultra. It is important to use the correct electrical manual for your ride. When testing your Harley Davidson ignition coil you will be testing ohms resistance.
You will find that the primary resistance will be a low number; 0. The secondary resistance will be in the thousands of ohms. Understanding what your coil does and how it works is important for diagnosing electrical issues on your motorcycle. The ignition coil is a vital part of your Harley Davidson electrical system. Bob LaRosa gives us a great overview on some of the basic tools we need to service our Harley-Davidson from oil-change to custom part install.
Bob shows us that tools are only part of…. Bob demonstrates how to service the front and rear brake calipers on a Sportster. There are a few changes that Harley has made over the years, so you should be sure to pay attention to the differences; they could affect how you service your bike.
Bob walks us through Harley rear wheel alignment. Bob and Mark show you how to remove and replace the Harley front wheel on your Sportster. They teach you the proper way to take off the brake caliper and wheel axle so you can do whatever you need to do to the front tire.
Harley Davidson Ignition Coil Test
It consists generally of two sets of wires that are wrapped around an iron core. This component comes sealed, and is not a repairable item. Fortunately, testing is relatively straight forward, requiring a pair of resistance measurements made at the connection terminals on the coil.
The time necessary to complete this task should be no more than 15 to 20 minutes. Turn off the motorcycle. Allow the engine to become cool to the touch before proceeding. Disconnect, by hand, the two spark plug wires from the coil. Unscrew the smaller connections on the coil with an SAE wrench. Set the ohmmeter to read resistance on the "Rx1" setting.
Measure the resistance across the two smaller terminals on the coil. The meter should read between 2. Set the ohmmeter to read resistance on the "Rx" setting. Measure the resistance across the two larger terminals on the coil. The ohmmeter should read between 10, and 12, ohms. If the meter reads outside of the ranges for either of the above measurements, then the coil is faulty and should be replaced. This article was written by the It Still Runs team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.
To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Runs, contact us. Step 1 Turn off the motorcycle. Step 2 Disconnect, by hand, the two spark plug wires from the coil. Step 3 Set the ohmmeter to read resistance on the "Rx1" setting. Step 4 Set the ohmmeter to read resistance on the "Rx" setting. Tip Sometimes a coil will only give a faulty reading when it is hot from riding. In this instance, it may be necessary to allow the coil to heat up before performing a resistance measurement.
Exercise extreme caution when working around a hot motorcycle. Items you will need SAE wrench set Ohmmeter. About the Author This article was written by the It Still Runs team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information. Photo Credits motorcycle image by Greg Pickens from Fotolia.Webshop Open!
Bad Behavior has blocked access attempts in the last 7 days. Welcome, Guest. Please login or register. Did you miss your activation email? News: Webshop Open! Read times. Geeto67 A grumpy Old Timer Posts: 2, The bike has a kerker 4 into 1, stock airbox, and a Dyna S ignition module. Although the bike was the previous owner's daily rider, it did have some running problems. The bike will not idle, if at a stop light the rpms will creep down slowly until the bike stalls, I have adjusted the idle screw a bunch of times and either that happens or the bike revs to rpms - there is no middle ground.
At part and full throttle acceleration there is a noticible stumble ar around rpms and then the bike takes off like a bat out of hell.
Year, Make, Model
I suspect it is a timing issue and I am wondering how do I check if the Dyna S ignition is set up properly? How do I make adjustments? Rocking-M Guest. I'd check the and make sure the carbs are in sync first. Sounds just like mine when I first got it. You can take the airbox off and eyeball the slides to see if there all in approx the same position.
If you don't have a timing light then you need to manually spread the weights of the advancer to check advance timing. Because of this I would not suspect your Dyna to be the source of the problem since you say it "takes off like a bat out of hell" at rpm. Like Rocking-M, I would suspect carb issues. Give me. I had a similar problem with my car and it turned out the static timing was out of whack, so I figured I'd start there.
I've never had a Dyna S setup before. Terry in Australia Really Old Timer Posts: 25, So, what do ya wanna talk about today? What Sean said mate, the Dyna is a "set and forget" deal, and not much goes wrong with them.
Cheers, Terry. I was feeling sorry for myself because I couldn't afford new bike boots, until I met a man with no legs. So I said, "Hey mate, you haven't got any bike boots you don't need, do you?
SMF 2.A popular upgrade for older bikes equipped with ignition points is to install an electronic ignition. Electronic ignitions are nice since it eliminates moving parts that wear out. Ignition points do wear over time and it turn, will change the ignition timing.
The bike used in this video is a Kawasaki KZ I have a video on it here that gives a little more info on the build if you are interested. Here is a list of tools used for this project. These are aff links and support me at no cost to you. Klein strippers — handles AWG and also useful around the house. Your email address will not be published. Email Address:. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Posted by Matthew on February 18, in Ignition.
Share This Post Facebook 0. Twitter 0. I agree to have my personal information transfered to MailChimp more information. Like my articles and How-To videos? Enter your name and email to get notified when new content becomes available. No spam. No BS. No sharing email.
Liked it? Take a second to support Matthew on Patreon! Author: Matthew. Leave a Comment Cancel Your email address will not be published.What's the point. I had that heavy GT motor in the frame and assembly was proceeding nicely up to the points where I tried to set the points.
Not having set points in over a decade, my technique was more than a little rusty. The dial gauge was rigidly mounted to the block to read piston position, a good set of feeler gauges and enough electrical test equipment. The problem was accurately recording the point at which the points opened. In addition, relatively small changes to poinst gaps made relatively large differences to timing.
After an hour or two of frustration I cried enough and decided it was time to move to Plan B - An electronic pointless system. Sources I started with a new Dyna S made to fit a Harley. The reason is simple - it was the cheapest unit on ebay when I was looking. In the picture I have placed two rotors.
The one on the left is plastic, very nice, one magnet, perfect, but the bore is too small. Of course a GT has 3 cylinders so you will need one extra pickup unit. Fortunately I happened to have a spare one that came off one of our Honda CB racers. The has a degree crank, so it only needs one pickup on the crank end to fire a double coil once per revolution.
So that left a spare module. Second hand used Dynas are reasonably cheap on ebay. No need to pay retail price for this stuff. Mounting plate The first job was to move one of the pickups from the HD V twin position to a point degrees from the first.
Then the third pickup was added a further degrees around. Having a spare side cover made things really easy in terms of access and visibility. It isn't strictly necessary, but it was so much easier to look at it on the bench versus lying on the floor to see it all in place.
So far so good, but a HD points plate is way different to a GT plate. There were several possible solutions. One possibility was to mount the HD plate onto a stock Suzuki points plate. That somehow, didn't seem like a very good idea, but it would have been the simplest solution. Or I could have had a custom mounting plate machine up. That would be the most elegant solution, but most expensive.
For people with lathe in the garage or who can get parts made by buddies, this is the way to go for that super trick look. The third option was to mount the pickups straight onto a stock Suzuki GT mounting plate. And that is what I chose to do.
Transposing the new mounting hole positions to the GT mounting plate isn't difficult, but it took a couple of goes to get it right. Accuracy and attention to detail are essential because the pickups need to be within about 2 degrees of the right spot. There isn't a whole lot of room to play with and two of the pickups are really close and their leads end up pointing past each other, so be very careful with wiring them or else they will fire in the wrong sequence.
Dyna S pickups have about 5 degrees of adjustability and we'll need all of that to fine tune the timing when it's all mounted.
How to Test a Harley Davidson Ignition Coil
Rotor Make sure you get an Aluminum rotor. If the rotor has one magnet, it's perfect, but most Dyna rotors have two magnets which is not what we need so take a micro torch and carefully, but quickly heat the rotor around one of the magnets.
Within minutes the magnet will shoot across the room as the epoxy softens and air behind it expands and pushes it out. The idea is to avoid slowly heating the whole rotor and risk losing both magnets, so I had to work quickly.
Obviously that isn't such a great idea to try on a plastic rotor.Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation. Index of Forums Recent Topics Search. Welcome, Guest. Username: Password: Remember me. Forgot your password? Forgot your username? Create an account. TOPIC: wiring the dynatek electronic ignition. Go to the www. Dyna makes several models. If yours is the same then this is what it should look like installed.
Montreal, Canada. Also, this is what my circuit looks like.
Oh, what a difference. But this was only half of the answer. I believe that the associated improvement in starting, running, tune-abilty and reliability are the only reasons I still have this bike today. I cannot recommend this modification to strongly You will have noticed that it is shown in my diagram above. I prefer not to give advice on equipment I don't have but here goes anyways I would speculate that you should remove all of your original electronic ignition system, pickup heads, ignitor box and all.
Since the Dyna S has integrated both functions into the pickup heads the installation should be much simpler and cleaner to. You may have noticed that I installed a new and separate 5 Amp fuse circuit just for the Dyna coils and pickup heads.
I did this for the purpose of easy fault isolation and troubleshooting. You may want to do the same since the incremental cost is so low compared to the Dyna parts you have already purchased and certainly low compared to the befits, IMHO. Now, I will need to let wiser and more experienced KZ owners confirm or correct my advice.
Thanks in advance. Best of success. PS Still looking forward to your year, model and location. Did 1 and 4 spark before the installation of the Dyna ignition? Good stuff! Thanks for getting back to everyone. Powered by Kunena Forum. Page: 1 2.We got good suggestions from our travel consultant. It was great to have the map highlighted with the things that were important to us and the accommodations for each night.
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